The Ha Giang Loop

The Ha Giang loop was originally pioneered by and created for motorcycle tourers, we chose to ride it on our bicycles. The loop traverses around the Dong Van Karst Plateau, a collection of steep limestone canyons and peaks in the northernmost corner of Vietnam. The route is well known for its small and dangerous mountain roads, giving you incredible views into the green valleys below.

Getting there was one of the biggest travel nightmares of my life. A visa error at Noi Bai sent me to Bangkok on the first flight out. Three days, barely any sleep, and a dubious payment later, I was finally let into Vietnam.

After a happy reunion and a night in Ha Noi, we assembled our boxed-up bikes in the rain and caught the bus deep into the mountains.

We spent the night in Ha Giang, and in the morning gathered supplies and stopped at the local cafe, which was also a basket store, for some Vietnamese coffee and fresh coconut water before heading into the mountains.

Sam posing in front of a temple at the top of our first major climb.

One of the small side roads we biked down. This road went out through a small farming village and ended at a large cave.

Even the tiny mountain villages we travelled through had a bustling night life. Markets and restaurants were busy late into the night with uncles sharing drinks and food. Pool rooms were also a common occurrence even on the most remote stretches of road. Our favorite thing to order when we went out was Bia hơi, a light homebrewed beer that is usually made fresh daily.

Looking down on Tam Son Town.

As we were biking we got to see many snippets of daily life in the mountains. We heard people singing in the forests as the forage for wild herbs, saw people carrying loads of crops up the steep trails, and watched people burning fields. Many of the villages we passed by were mostly self reliant, gathering and making all of their own food. The native Hmong people that live here are also known for their intricate fabric weaving and dyeing, using natural materials that they grow and gather.

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