The Ha Giang Loop

The Ha Giang loop was originally pioneered by and created for motorcycle tourers, we chose to ride it on our bicycles. The loop traverses around the Dong Van Karst Plateau, a collection of steep limestone canyons and peaks in the northernmost corner of Vietnam. The route is well known for its small and dangerous mountain roads, giving you incredible views into the green valleys below.

Getting there was one of the biggest travel nightmares of my life. A visa error at Noi Bai sent me to Bangkok on the first flight out. Three days, barely any sleep, and a dubious payment later, I was finally let into Vietnam.

After a happy reunion and a night in Ha Noi, we assembled our boxed-up bikes in the rain and caught the bus deep into the mountains.

We spent the night in Ha Giang, and in the morning gathered supplies and stopped at the local cafe, which was also a basket store, for some Vietnamese coffee and fresh coconut water before heading into the mountains.

Sam posing in front of a temple at the top of our first major climb.

One of our favorite ride foods was Bánh Chưng. This is a heavy rice cake filled with mung beans and pork belly, wrapped in banana leaves. It is traditionally a special treat made near Tet (Vietnamese new years), luckily we were doing this loop the week before. This calorie dense food was perfect for roadside lunches at the tops of mountains, especially with a drizzle of chili sauce.

One of the small side roads we biked down. This road went out through a small farming village and ended at a large cave.

Even the tiny mountain villages we travelled through had a bustling night life. Markets and restaurants were busy late into the night with uncles sharing drinks and food. Pool rooms were also a common occurrence even on the most remote stretches of road. Our favorite thing to order when we went out was Bia hơi, a light homebrewed beer that is usually made fresh daily.

As we were biking we got to see many snippets of daily life in the mountains. We heard people singing in the forests as the forage for wild herbs, saw people carrying loads of crops up the steep trails, and watched people burning fields. Many of the villages we passed by were mostly self reliant, gathering and making all of their own food. The native Hmong people that live here are also known for their intricate fabric weaving and dyeing, using natural materials that they grow and gather.

Looking down on Tam Son Town.

Getting dinner was always a highlight of the day. Some staples included bánh mì, pho, cháo, and various other selections of street foods. Restaurants were often part of peoples homes, eating at them was a very personal experience. Often children would be playing or doing homework in the same room. Vegetables are usually gathered from personal gardens in backyards, and meat is bought from local farmers. Everything was incredibly fresh, made from scratch, and delicious.

Traffic in Vietnam seemed chaotic at first, but we eventually figured out how to stay in the flow. Staying aware of your surroundings and being predictable to drivers were the two main ways to stay safe.

The huge climbs were worth it for the amazing descents.

Our final day of riding finished with a steep pass to get back to the Town of Ha Giang. At the top there was a small shop, where the shopkeeper invited us in for some beers and karaoke.